Sunday, 25 August 2013

My Work: From Bitten Nails to Elegant Acrylics

As a newbie nail technician I was always told that nail biters would be your hardest client and to reserve such appointments for when you have more experience.  Obviously if you have a booking you can't necessarily help who turns up but I mean to perhaps not practise on a nail biters nails while you're still getting to grips with the skill. 

I was contacted by a lovely girl that I did the nails of on Friday who had a friend wanting acrylics but wasn't sure if it was possible due to her nail biting.  I gave her the official answer which is "I'm trained to be able to customise nails to fit any person." Of course this is within reason, if there is nothing to adhere to then that's that out!  Either way I was up for the challenge! 

Lianne wanted them to not stand out alot (like a glitter tip) and went for the tradition pink and white French tips.  

In general the eponychium (which is the skin surrounding the nail) tends to be overgrown in nail biters and pretty tough so my first job was to push this back so that I had a maximum amount of area for the acrylic formula to adhere to.  

Next was to do all the usual prep work, remove shine etc but the biggest task was to elongate the nail bed.  What I mean by that is have you ever noticed acrylic nails that seem to be a tiny bit of pink and huge white tip?  It's completely unbalanced.  A general rule is two parts pink to one part white, this is what is considered to be 'esthentically pleasing.'  So to extend the nail bed I used a clear tip and amended where needed (when the natural nail is so short the corners of the tip can sometimes go too far up the side walls so I will file them off where required.)

Next I used the NSI Radiant White to sculpt my smile line further down than where the her natural nail finished.  To cover over the gap from where the natural nail stops and the new false smile line starts, you will always need to use a masking powder.  I prefer to not use the NSI masque range straight out the pot and have developed a mix of 50% Purely Pink Masque and 50% Radiant Pink.  Together these colours give enough coverage but also the illusion of a milky pink and less of a solid pink that the masque range offers.  I have a big pot of this mixed and on hand at all times!

Once her nails were all filed and cleaned up, I added a little Konad design on the ring fingers and NSI Glaze N Go to keep them super shiny for her.  I watched her stare at her nails for ages in utter amazement.  That was the best feeling as I knew she felt good looking at them after being seeming to be a little embarrassed when she first arrived.  

I did explain to her that it was best to keep them short as it will cause less strain on her natural nails.  Hopefully if she looks after them, in a few weeks her nail will have grown out underneath.  I think then she will be even more pleased and encouraged to kick the nibbling habit!


  1. Wow. You did a great job! Turned out awesome :)

  2. Wow what a difference, the first picture looks kind of painful, but the result is beautiful!


  3. What a lovely transformation, I bet she felt really confident once she saw the end result. It must have really made you happy to see the change in her confidence :) xx

    Angelica [One Little Vice]

  4. Her nails look lovely! Well done to you :D I am a self confessed nail biter but my nails arn't that short i don't think as i'd love to wear acrylics for my holiday next year - i apply false nails when i'm on holiday as i love long nails but just can't seem to go that step far & grow them :(

  5. her nails look amazing. I am a nail bier myself and i have gotten them done once they looked horrible i mean they wouldn't even file the sides down because i have such tiny fingers to begin with so they used the other end of the nail i was so upset because the nails they did that with pointed upwards and just looked silly. I will stick to my glue on's even tho they are a pain in the butt

  6. These look amaazing! You did such a great job!! xx

  7. Amazing work Karen!! My husband is a nail biter, and I'm sure his fingers look like they've shrunk due to years of biting!! Somehow don't think he'd go for acrylics though - will just have to keep nagging him LOL x


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